LED overpowering - where is the truth?

  • I am doing it from the beginning (first 5mm super-bright LEDs) and therefore I have gathered some information what will happend and what will not. I have used these at up to 100mA and many of them have served well... Of course, I have improved heat dissipation capabilities of such abused leds at first...
    So, what about high power leds? I don't believe in fast death if higher current is appplied, especially when properly cooled. Few times I accidentally shocked high power led with more than twice current, and nothing goes wrong. Modern power leds have very low thermal resistance, so the cooling is not a problem.
    My question is: If I don't need 100000 hours of life, do I have to operate at rated currents? I think I do not. In many applications the led will be used few hours or tens of hours (bicycle light, flashlight, and many else), so 100 or 1000 hours of life is reasonable enough...
    I also take in account fast improvement of led technology, who will cry for 1W 20lumen white led today? I will let it go and replace it with 1W 100lumen one!


    What is Your opinion and experience?


    Thanks...

  • Well, you CANN pulse-drive LEDs far out of their "normal" rating. BUT you need to stay within certain parameters in order to not kill your LED to fast.
    LED-flashlights for example are driven at twice or more the max. current of the LED - but since it´s a flash, you only drive them for 1/3 second max - and then wait at least 10x as long till you shoot again.
    This gives the heat time to spread into the cooler.


    Another possibility is extreme, active cooling - like dipping the LED into liquid CO2 etc. - this will suck out all the heat quite efficiently - and it will enable you to run a PowerLED at a constant 3x of it´s´normal rating - but it´s hardly a practical way to cool your bike lamp.


    The real question for portable LED-lamps is:
    How do I get a maximum lumen per watt out of it?


    Since the efficiency of most PowerLEDs is dropping good beyond 350mA, driving them with more than even the max. rating is only usefull if you want a maximum of light at any cost. (like in a photo-flash)


    Stefan Z

  • Thank You very much, I have made some calculations and I found out that CO2 would not be so necessary:


    For example I will take Seoul P4:


    Thermal resistance for star is 8,5 K/W
    Maximum operating junction temperature is 145 C
    If my heatsink will be good enough not to warm over 40 C (no problem), I can dissipate (145-40)/8,5 = cca 13W from led chip... It is a lot when I compare it with less than 3W of thermal power dissipated in normal 1A operation... So there must be another reason (besides efficiency) for 1A limit... (I know there are gold wires bond to the chip and they have a current limit too)...


    But 2 or slightly more Amps can not overheat the led chip when sufficient cooling is provided... Common bigger aluminium heatsink must work, or some fan cooled heatsink...

  • Zitat von "hotfinger"

    But 2 or slightly more Amps can not overheat the led chip when sufficient cooling is provided... Common bigger aluminium heatsink must work, or some fan cooled heatsink...


    No, 2A with just a huge heatsink will not work (at least not efficiently and safe). If you try that, use at least aq copper-heatsink and really good thermal compound/glue. An active cooling-element would be better I guess (peltier-element). Peltier-elements are quite expensive, but if you happen to get an old PowerMac 7200 on eBay (2 Euro + shipping), you can take the one out thats on the CPU (just remembered where I got my peeltier ;) )...


    But all in all: Pasive coolers just cannot constantly absorbe the thermal energy produced by a PowerLED on 2A - a hotspot will form on the chip and shorten it´s life or reduce the brightness.


    Stefan Z

  • I have some peltier modules lying arond somewhere, and have no problem to buy some cheap here... I was thinking about this, I got my first 89W peltier module many years ago (around year 2000)
    But it is still better to use 2 leds than using overpowered led with peltier (due to peltier cost which is reaching the cost of led and more power consumption).


    But I still don't understand why shouldn't be proper heatsink enough for cooling the led, if the led has 8.5 C/W plus heat resistance between heatsink and star 1 C/W and the cooler is for example 5 C/W and let there be 0.2 C/W difference between the place under the led and the rest of the heatsink, it is 8.5+1+5+0.2=14.7 C/W. If ambient temperature is 25 C and for 2A we consider 8W: 8x14.7+25=142.6 C. Max allowed temperature is 145 C so this should work... It is not ideal, but still usable - I am calculating with the worst possible conditions...
    So with better heatsink (maybe air-cooled), cooler ambient temperature or little less current it should be OK. My bike headlight consists of P4 mounted on heatsink. When riding, the heatsink is air cooled (cold air-at night) so I don't see problem in driving the led at 1.5A for example...
    Is there anything else I haven't calculated with?
    Heatsinks of this size and at this power has very equal distribution of heat, the place under the led will not be much hotter than the rest of it. I am often dealing with 10x or more power and it is OK...

  • I found a mistake in my calculation - the thermal power for 2A will not be 8W, it wil be less because of power emitted as light (around 1,5W). So thermal power produced by the led will be cca 6,5W which gives:
    14,7 x 6,5 = 95,55 C 8)
    The led chip temperature will be deep under limit...

  • 2€ for a peltier element is cheap. here in germany they cost from 9,95€ to 40€ :o


    [code:1]
    PELTIER ELEMENT TEC1-1703
    Artikel-Nr.: 193550 - LN
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    [/code:1]

  • 2 Euro for a Mac!
    And the Mac includes the Peltier (which will render the Mac pretty useless unless you cool his CPU otherwise.)
    But better than paying 29 Euros for a new peltier....
    Also, the Peltier gets cold on one side and hot on the other... Take care to use an additional cooler on the hot side!


    Take 3 high-efficiency LEDs and run them at 350mA - your budget will appreciate that on the long run ;)


    Stefan Z

  • Also if it is still working (it will be, old Macs tend to be indestructible, especially the 7200), it´s´just a waste of energy.. no OS X, 90 MHz.... who cares... But it´s the one good/cheap source of peltier-elements that I know ;)


    Stefan Z


    PS - Pletier-elements are active components - and they use a heck of energy - 12V and up to 4A - so I´d still recommend multiple Power-LEDs for everyday-use...

  • Here in Slovakia I can buy Peltiers for this prices - example:


    from
    15x15x3,3mm 8,5A/2,06V 9,2W for 3,17 EUR


    through
    40x40x3,3mm 10A/15,8V 89W for 5,5 EUR


    to
    62x62x4,8mm 30A/16,2V 267W for 19,83 EUR


    The e-shop is also in Czech rep., but I don't know if they are delivering to other countries...


    The peltier does not need to be driven at max. power, it will be very inefficient and also in real applications they are used at max. 60% or so. When cooling led, small peltier running at 10 or 20 percent of its power will be enough. When proper peltier is selected, it is possible to connect it in series with the led and it's cooling power will rise with current flowing through the led - very clever way... The heatsink capabilities must be correctly chosen, because the peltier not only transfers but also produces heat...

  • Yes, that is right!
    But, only if the cold side is too cold... It is not necessary to freeze the led, but just to make the temperature difference between the heatsink and the the led equal to the temperature difference of heatsink to ambient...
    But I have found a lot of nice and cheap heatsinks very useful with star leds, and that will be the way for my applications :wink: